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Renegade Hoof Boots


Renegade®Hoof
Boots are specifically designed for "Naturally Trimmed" hooves with a
naturally low heel, a short toe and a mustang roll and may not work well
with high heels. Also, due to their capability for achieving very high
levels of performance, more attention to detail is required.
How
to Measure The Hoof
For Renegade® Hoof Boots
And Pro-Comp Glue-Ons
Note: Pro-Comp Glue-Ons,
not yet available in sizes 2W or 2WW.
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In order to determine the proper boots size, we need two
hoof measurements, hoof width and hoof length.
"Hoof Width" is defined as: The distance
measured at the widest point of the hoof.
"Hoof Length"
is defined as: The distance measured from the toe to a line
drawn between both heel buttresses at their rearmost point
of weight bearing (Green
Dots shown above).
"Hoof Width" is quite easy to determine but you might be
asking "Where exactly is the rearmost point of weight
bearing?"
Imagine for a moment that you applied wet paint to the
bottom of your horses hoof and then walked him across a
smooth hard surface while the paint was still wet. Looking
at the hoof prints he left behind, the rearmost point of
weight bearing would correspond with the rearmost point of
the hoof print, not counting any print left by the frog.
I'm not recommending that you measure the hooves with wet
paint, but this example may help you visualize the location
of the "rear most point of weight bearing".
Once we have determined "Hoof Length" then we can determine
"Boot Length" by adding from 1/8" to 1/4" (3mm-7mm) to the
Hoof Length measurement.
Therefore,
"Boot Length" is defined as: The "Hoof Length"
plus a little extra, about 1/8" to 1/4" (3mm-7mm). The
reason why we want the boot length longer than the hoof
length is because the hoof normally lands heel first and
needs some support behind the rearmost point of weight
bearing at the heels.
Boot width then, will simply be the closest match to the
"Hoof Width" without getting the fit too tight. Experience
has shown that the boot can become unstable if the hoof is
too tight and pushes the sidewalls of the boot outward.
To reiterate:
Boot Width= the closest match to hoof width whithout
being too tight.
Boot Length= hoof length plus some extra, about 1/8"
to 1/4" (3mm-7mm). If the requred boot length is shorter
than what is shown in the boot chart, we can trim the back
of the boot base at no extra charge. This is especially
important for horses known to overreach with their hind
hooves. Pro-Comp Glue-Ons are not available factory trimmed.
It is preferrable to trim Glue-Ons after installation with
hoof nippers. |
English Measure |
| Boot Size |
Actual Boot Width |
Actual Boot Length |
| 00 |
4 3/16" |
4 3/4" |
| 0 |
4 9/16" |
5" |
| 1 |
4 3/4" |
5 1/4" |
| 2 |
5" |
5 1/2" |
| 2W |
5 1/4" |
5 1/2" |
| 2WW |
5 1/2" |
5 1/2" |
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Metric
Measure |
| Boot Size |
Actual Boot Width |
Actual Boot Length |
| 00 |
106.5mm |
120.5mm |
| 0 |
116mm |
127mm |
| 1 |
121mm |
134mm |
| 2 |
127mm |
140mm |
| 2W |
133mm |
140mm |
| 2WW |
140mm |
140mm |
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In most all cases, boot width will be the dominate
measurement for determining boot size. Obviously, If the
hoof in question is wider than what is shown for a given
boot size, you will need the next size up boot.
In the case of a hoof fitting the width of the boot but the
length of the boot is more than needed, we can trim down the
back of the boot by up to 3/8"(10mm) at no charge.
Trimming down the back of the boot is most important for
horses which are known to interfere or overreach with a hind
hoof. This interference can be dangerous to the horse and
rider and for this reason we make no attempt to design a
boot that is indestructible as doing so is not in the best
interest of the horse or rider. Therefore, if your horse
destroys a hoof boot, most likely you are encountering
interference problems. Tracing the back of the hoof with a
felt maker on the insole and then trimming to within 1/8"
(3mm) of the traced line will usually resolve the issue.
Mysterious boot retention problems on front hooves are often
caused by this sometimes hard to detect interference problem
which can also result in the destruction of the boot.
Also consider the height of the heels for the horse in
question. The boot was designed primarily for low heels and
short toes but will also work for medium height heels.
Horses with high heels my have problems using the boot and
in most cases will also need over length cables. For these
horses it is suggested that the high heels be addressed
through natural hoof care methods as a precursor to fitting
the boots. Please see the
Hoof Conformation page
Horses with "high heels" or "run-under" heels, may exhibit a
shorter length measurement from the toe to the rearmost
point of weight bearing than if the same hoof had heels in a
lower configuration. So, if your goal is to lower the heels
in the coming months while using the boot, you will need to
consider this when determining boot length.
If the hoof in question is just a "little bit bigger" than a
given boot size, especially when talking about width, in
most all cases it is best to go up to the next boot size
versus squeezing the hoof into an "almost fit" size boot. If
you encounter boot twisting problems, the back of the boot
can be fitted with Vettec Equithane or similar material. Go
to this page for more information about
Boot Fitting Modifications
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